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She felt he actually cared. In the marriage offices in Kadhimiya, clerics approached by the BBC undercover reporter elaborated on their practice.

Iran-Iraq conflict remembered through the lives of widows

At Sadr City courthouse, couples gather with their parents to have their permanent Sharia marriages signed off by a judge. He's your husband, you believe you have a future, but it turned out it was all a lie. The Shia takeover of the state has not brought better government. And instead of thanking me for doing that, they fined me!

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But how does he secure a safe location? I visited the shrine of Imam Ali, passing through the outer gate with its entrancing tiles of green, blue and yellow, then walking through the courtyard to the shrine's inner doorway of beaten gold.

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There is more to Najaf than blood and poverty. Some of the clerics also appear unconcerned that the bride in question is very young.

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